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Black bottom seal along a closed white garage door at a concrete threshold. — Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement, Georgina
A person kneels beside the side track and hinges of a closed sectional garage door. — Garage Door Safety Inspection, Georgina

Repairs · Georgina

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement

The gap under the door is a finger wide at one end and nothing at the other.

Call (289) 653-1572

In plain words

The bottom seal is one part of a weather line that runs all the way round the door. Vinyl-finned stop moulding seals the jambs and header, the section joints have their own tongue-and-groove or shiplap seals, and a threshold seal glued to the floor can meet the bottom strip where a slab slopes the wrong way. Bottom seal replacement addresses the piece that takes the most punishment, and while the technician is there the rest of the perimeter is looked over. Where the side or top strips are torn or shrunk, doing them in the same visit gives a garage sealed on all four edges rather than three.

Sound familiar?

After a spring rain there is a puddle inside the door that reaches the tires. The driveway slopes toward the garage, the slab has a low corner, and the flattened old seal is not making up the difference.

How the visit goes

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement

How the visit goes

Technician in a cap holding a screwdriver inside an open garage-door opener housing, with a red pull cord hanging beside it.
Paneled garage door leaning on its side against a wall, with one section on sawhorses and a tool bag on the floor.
  1. Why the old seal failed

    The old strip is read for its history before it comes off. Cracks along the fold and a chalky surface point to sun and age. A flattened bulb that no longer springs back is compression set. A torn edge at one end usually means the seal froze to the floor and the opener pulled it free. Chew marks say rodents. A strip that has slid partly out of its channel points to a bent or opened retainer, or to a seal that was slightly the wrong size. Each of these leads to a different choice of material, profile or retainer work, so the new seal is spared the fate of the old one.

  2. Feeding the seal into the retainer

    Both edges of the new seal are started into their channels together at one end of the door. A spray of soapy water or silicone on the edges lets the strip glide, and the technician works it across in stages, pulling gently from the front end and feeding from the other so the seal is never stretched, since a stretched seal shrinks back and leaves a gap later. Once it is across, the bulb is checked to hang evenly with no twists. The ends are trimmed flush with the door and folded up into the channel or capped, so water running along the seal drains out rather than into the section.

  3. A door that meets the floor in one line

    The first thing you notice is the absence of daylight. With the door closed and the lights off, the floor line is dark from one jamb to the other, and the draft that used to move across the floor is much reduced. The door lands softly, because the opener now stops when the seal is gently compressed rather than driving the section into the concrete. Leaves, grit and drifting snow are kept out far more often. If you crouch and look, the new bulb sits evenly along the slab, filling the low corner the old strip used to hover above.

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement

In the van

  • Wire brush and scraper

  • T-style bottom seal

  • Aluminum bottom seal retainer

  • Seal end caps

  • Bulb or U-style bottom seal

Opened garage-door opener motor with a green circuit board on a workbench beside its white cover, two remotes and screwdrivers.

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement

What affects the quote

  1. Perimeter seals done together

    Jamb and header weatherstripping renewed in the same visit is quoted per length of stop moulding, and doing it alongside the bottom seal saves a second call-out.

  2. Season and conditions

    A seal frozen to the slab, ice at the threshold or working in deep cold adds time for freeing the old strip, clearing the line and keeping the new roll warm enough to feed.

  3. Access and clearance

    Storage, a vehicle that must stay inside, or shelving against the bottom of the door slows the work. A clear metre inside the door makes the visit shorter.

What to have ready

  • Is the gap even across the door, or worse at one end or in the middle?
  • Does the door stop short of the floor or reverse before it closes?
  • Is the old seal hard and cracked, torn, hanging loose, or missing?
Call (289) 653-1572

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement: questions

Questions
How do I look after the new seal?

Wipe it clean of salt and grit a few times a year, and give it a light coat of silicone spray each autumn so meltwater has nothing to bond to. Keep petroleum products and solvents away from it, since they soften vinyl. Clear ice and packed snow from the threshold before running the door in winter. Once a season, look under the closed door for daylight. That is the whole routine.

Why does the seal freeze to the floor, and what should I do when it does?

Snow melts off the car, runs to the low point at the door and refreezes overnight around the seal. When that happens, leave the remote alone, since the opener will tear the strip or pull the door out of level. Free the seal by hand with gentle warmth along the line or by working a plastic scraper under it, then run the door. A film of silicone on the seal each autumn largely prevents it.

What does a new bottom seal do about water coming in?

It closes the gap between the door and the slab so rain and meltwater meet a continuous barrier. Where the driveway slopes toward the garage, or the slab edge has dipped, the seal alone is working against gravity, and a threshold seal glued to the floor adds a lip that turns water back toward the drive. The technician looks at where the water comes from and recommends the combination that suits your threshold.

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